Skip to content
  • Map
  • Route Finder
  • Route Planner
  • Travel Guide
  • Community
Sign up or log in
  • Map
  • Route Finder
  • Route Planner
  • Travel Guide
  • Community
Sign up
  • Places & Accommodation
    • Places to visit
    • Eat & drink
    • Huts
    • Accommodation
    • Ski resorts
    • Crags
  • News & Conditions
    • Current Conditions
    • Weather
    • Webcams
    • Avalanche Report
    • Events
  • Inspiration
    • Collections
    • Offers
    • Travel Stories
    • Publications
  • Community
    • Challenges
    • Groups
  • Settings
  • Help
Back
Stories Croatia Frozen lakes, memorable encounters, and personal moments. Traveling across Europe on two wheels
Plan a route here
Travelog Top

Frozen lakes, memorable encounters, and personal moments. Traveling across Europe on two wheels

· 19 reviews · Travelog · Croatia · July 07, 2023
Logo Outdooractive Editors
Responsible for this content
Outdooractive Editors Verified partner 
  • Deborah and Simon on the road through Europe
    Deborah and Simon on the road through Europe

In this interview, we met up with Deborah and Simon to talk about their exciting, once-in-a-lifetime cycling trip across Europe. Since the start of January, the pair have been on the road with their touring bikes as they travel from Croatia to Crete and on to the North Cape - a journey that covers an impressive 10,000 kilometers and 17 countries! Follow us as we discuss crossing frozen lakes, excess baggage, some of their more memorable encounters, and the importance of managing expectations. 



  • Croatia
    Bicycle Touring Simon and Deborah's Cycling Journey - Once Along Europe
In the middle of nowhere in Lapland during Spring
In the middle of nowhere in Lapland during Spring

On bike trips like these, you're looking at unspoiled nature mixing with cities and infrastructure. Where's been the 'loneliest' place, that's felt closest to nature?

Basically, there aren't that many places here in Europe that you can consider truly lonely, as there are people living everywhere. We thought we'd find it once we arrived in Finland, but even that wasn't the case. Southern Finland at least has houses and supermarkets every few kilometers. We'd probably say Lapland has been the loneliest place so far. 

Deborah rides across the ice
Deborah rides across the ice

We've just come to the end of the season and all the skiers have gone home, so it's really dead. And as spring here really isn't actually warm, as you might expect, there are hardly any tourists in the area. There are also very few towns here, and so you often find yourself cycling through kilometers of forest and fjell... and even over frozen lakes! That was really a crazy feeling!

Just above sea level with a view across to Kos
Just above sea level with a view across to Kos

Do you stick to a strict schedule and ride every day? How many kilometers and meters of altitude do you guys manage on average?

On average, we do 76 kilometers and 500 meters of altitude, and ride a little over 5 hours each day. For us, it doesn't feel that fast and we also like to take very long breaks: two or three hour-long stops for coffee, just to admire the landscape.

It was a bit harder at the beginning when the days were shorter, but now we're getting up to 18 hours of daylight, it's really relaxed. And since Poland, there's been hardly any altitude difference. We encountered the most hills in Croatia, Greece, and along the Albanian coastline - and of course, that's when you also notice every kilo, but that makes the descents all the more satisfying. 

The beauty of Crete and in Finland could not be more different
The beauty of Crete and in Finland could not be more different

What have been the most memorable experiences and stages of your journey so far?

Where to even start! The best moments have been when we've met other bike travelers. For example, we once met someone who had a cat with him, and here, in Scandinavia, we keep meeting up with the same cyclist again and again - and sometimes travel a little bit with him. It's always awesome to have such encounters as we're all sharing a common experience, and these people can understand the same highs and lows that we feel.

For us, the bad times have often gone on to turn into really great experiences.  We had 12 days of rain in Albania, for example, and were struggling to find a place to sleep, but then a hotel owner let us stay in his bungalow for free. These situations have not been uncommon: terrible to start with but then turning out to be really great. It makes the overall experience more intense. 

It's hard to say which were the most beautiful stages of the route, as almost all of them had their own charm somehow, but if we had to decide, we'd probably say Crete and Finland.

Bike Riding · Finland
Along the longest lake in Finland Päijänne
Difficulty moderate
Distance 98.6 km
Duration 6:34 h
Ascent 324 m
Descent 386 m

Starting from Vääksy at a scenic Laavu, this route leads via Pulkkilanharju along the beautiful and longest lake in Finland called Paijänne.

from Simon Holwein,   Community
Bike Riding · Heraklion
Crete: Crisp exploration from Iraklion across the island to Ierapetra
Difficulty difficult
Distance 91.4 km
Duration 6:05 h
Ascent 1,078 m
Descent 1,081 m

First, we head east near the coast, with the possibility of stopping at one or two beaches. Later we turn onto a smaller road and the gradient ...

from Simon Holwein,   Community
Simon does a little serenading by the campfire with his trusty guitar
Simon does a little serenading by the campfire with his trusty guitar

What about excess baggage? Do you have anything you could live without?

Simon: I actually brought my travel guitar with me. Others wouldn't bother, but I personally consider it a necessity, but that's probably also because I earn money playing music at home. I'm in a band and we perform at weddings, birthdays, and events. We have a couple of gigs lined up when we get back and I have to keep my fingers nimble and stay in practice. 

Deborah: I took way too many clothes with me. I sent some things back home with a friend while in Turkey and then in Bulgaria I sent another round of things back. It's all been more balanced since then. Regarding Simon's guitar, I think it's worth it, because it makes a really nice atmosphere in the evening, especially if you have a campfire going. Everyone has that one "useless" item, like a drone perhaps. 

Loaded up bikes and Simon taking a "shower" in the sea in Greece
Loaded up bikes and Simon taking a "shower" in the sea in Greece

The hard facts: How heavy are your bikes? For how many days do you have food with you? How does it work with the showers? Do you always treat yourselves to accommodation?

Our bikes alone weigh 16 kilos and with luggage on top they weigh around 30 kilos. When it came to food, we were extremely hungry at the beginning without any experience, because we didn't want to starve (a problem for all long-distance cyclists). But we got away from that quite quickly and now buy fresh food every day. That also saves a lot of weight.

On the subject of showers: this is completely overrated...In southern Europe we used to bathe in the sea, but now we clean ourselves like cats: a quick wash and go! Once we 'washed' in the snow. It works, provided you dry yourself in front of the fire.

We rarely sleep in accommodations.  So far, this has only happened nine times. There, of course, we enjoy the shower all the more. It's crazy how such little things gain a new appreciation.

Which country has left the deepest impression in terms of its landscape or people?

A dinner invitation
A dinner invitation

In terms of the local people, we'd definitely say Albania. They were incredibly friendly and open-minded. They were always so enthusiastic to speak to us and we've even had dinner invitations. For scenery, it would be Finland, because we are huge fans of Scnadinavia. We even saw reindeer and moose tracks. Greece and Turkey were also incredibly beautiful. The sea, the mountains...

Bike Riding · Albania
Albania: From Vlora to Himarë via Llogara Pass
Difficulty difficult
Distance 67 km
Duration 6:17 h
Ascent 1,463 m
Descent 1,533 m

A tour that has it all. At the beginning you ride relaxed out of the valley, until suddenly a super steep incline becomes noticeable.

from Simon Holwein,   Community
Bike Riding · Turkey
Turkey: Along the Sea of Marmara with wonderful views
Difficulty moderate
Distance 67.8 km
Duration 4:31 h
Ascent 921 m
Descent 921 m

The coastal road runs directly along the beautiful Sea of Marmara. It becomes increasingly lonely until you suddenly find yourself directly below ...

from Simon Holwein,   Community
High spirits in spite of the snow
High spirits in spite of the snow

Were there any particularly difficult moments or moments that left an impression on you? What did you learn from these experiences?

The difficult times have often been weather related. A headwind is one of the worst things because you can't keep going and you waste a lot of energy. Persistent rain is also exhausting and wet weather makes you cold.

We learned that you have to hang on and keep going because this too will end. Focus on the simple things: the encounters, the breathtaking nature along the way.

Even with time management, you gradually become more relaxed. You learn that you always end up finding a place to sleep and that the weather gets better one day or another. Then we learned that a lot of things happen in the head. The approach is crucial. 

The secret is to accept the worst, because when things get better, everything gets even better. Just like back in Albania...

Deborah and Simon are continuing to Oslo. they hope to finish their journey at the end of June and return to Germany by train

If you want to know what happens next, you can do so by following Simon's profile!
Profile picture of Isabelle Ernst
Author
Isabelle Ernst 
Update: July 07, 2023

Questions and answers

Ask the first question

Would you like to ask the author a question?


Ratings and reviews

5.0
(19)
klaus brentel
December 28, 2023 · Community
Comment
Frederic Levy 
June 03, 2023 · Community
Inspiring indeed
More Show less
Comment
Profile picture of Jörn Pohl
Jörn Pohl
May 26, 2023 · Community
Comment
Show all reviews Show less

Photos from others


Discover story on map

Keywords

Photo Top story
  • My Map
  • Content
  • Show images Hide images
Features
2D 3D
Maps and trails
  • 5 Related content
Bike Riding · Finland
Along the longest lake in Finland Päijänne
Difficulty moderate
Distance 98.6 km
Duration 6:34 h
Ascent 324 m
Descent 386 m

Starting from Vääksy at a scenic Laavu, this route leads via Pulkkilanharju along the beautiful and longest lake in Finland called Paijänne.

from Simon Holwein,   Community
Bike Riding · Heraklion
Crete: Crisp exploration from Iraklion across the island to Ierapetra
Difficulty difficult
Distance 91.4 km
Duration 6:05 h
Ascent 1,078 m
Descent 1,081 m

First, we head east near the coast, with the possibility of stopping at one or two beaches. Later we turn onto a smaller road and the gradient ...

from Simon Holwein,   Community
Bike Riding · Albania
Albania: From Vlora to Himarë via Llogara Pass
Difficulty difficult
Distance 67 km
Duration 6:17 h
Ascent 1,463 m
Descent 1,533 m

A tour that has it all. At the beginning you ride relaxed out of the valley, until suddenly a super steep incline becomes noticeable.

from Simon Holwein,   Community
Bike Riding · Turkey
Turkey: Along the Sea of Marmara with wonderful views
Difficulty moderate
Distance 67.8 km
Duration 4:31 h
Ascent 921 m
Descent 921 m

The coastal road runs directly along the beautiful Sea of Marmara. It becomes increasingly lonely until you suddenly find yourself directly below ...

from Simon Holwein,   Community
Bicycle Touring · Croatia
Simon and Deborah's Cycling Journey - Once Along Europe
Difficulty difficult
Distance 10,298.3 km
Duration 807:20 h
Ascent 55,616 m
Descent 55,340 m

This route is a rough overview of Simon and Deborah's cycling trip from Croatia to Crete and up to the North Cape between January and May 2023. .

from Isabelle Ernst,   Outdooractive Editors
  • 5 Related content

Excursions and leisure tips for the region

Stories Croatia Frozen lakes, memorable encounters, and personal moments. Traveling across Europe on two wheels
App Store
Google Play Store
Huawei App Gallery
  • Our services
    • Features
    • Pro and Pro+
    • Pro for Search & Rescue
    • Enjoy benefits and discounts from our partners
    • Vouchers
    • B2B
  • More services
    • Help Center
    • Blog (German only)
    • Shop
    • Newsletter
    • Affiliate Program
    • Contact Us
  • Corporate
    • Discover Outdooractive
    • Outdooractive30
    • Careers
    • Outdooractive Business
Learn more about the apps for Android and iOS
1% for the Planet Digitize the Planet
Choose a language
English
  • Deutsch
  • italiano
  • français
  • español
  • עברית
  • 中文
  • română
  • português (Portugal)
  • português (Brasil)
  • čeština
  • suomi
  • русский
  • magyar
  • norsk bokmål
  • slovenčina
  • Nederlands
  • 日本語
  • українська
  • हिन्दी
  • Türkçe
  • Ελληνικά
  • Mobile version
  • Terms and conditions
  • Privacy policy
  • Cancellation policy
  • Customer information
  • Terms of payment
  • Map information
  • Legal Disclosure